Belt and Braces

Pantherella

2011-12-04T21:03:00.001Z

For those in the know, Pantherella are the sock to wear, being both extremely comfortable, and sporting some fantastic designs. They are made of the finest merino wool, cashmere and sea island cotton. They use the same circular spinning method they have used since 1937 when it was founded in Leicester, and has remained there for the past 75 years.

They have a perfect balance of funky designs, and simple, more formal business wear, although still with a touch of razzmatazz. These socks have a specialised high design to avoid committing the awkward faux pas of visible ankle flesh.

PS apologies for the delay between posts.

Festival Chic

2011-07-05T21:05:00.004+01:00

During my adventures at The Crow's Nest in Glastonbury just over a week ago, it occurred to me to take note on what to wear on such an occasion. I would suggest, if dry, flip-flops, desert boots, sandals or bare feet.

If muddy however, Wellingtons are a necessity. I have noticed a growing trend for folding them down recently, like a sort of reverse turn-up.

For the legs, shorts if dry, or jeans if wet. Your upper half ought to be clad in a tee shirt, and/or poncho or jacket. My preference is leather as it doesn't show the mud.

P.J's

2011-05-13T23:31:00.003+01:00

Norman Rockwell's Sunday Morning

The pyjamas (or pajamas) are timeless nightwear that first evolved into the pyjamas (or pajamas) that we know today in the 1930's when trousers were introduced to the affair. Before that men slept in long nightshirts.

Cary Grant in The Awful Truth wearing a nightshirt

The word 'pyjama' originates from the Persian word 'Pae jamah' a garment used to cover feet or legs as Middle Eastern daywear. They were brought back to Britain by colonials as a sleeping garment.

Morecambe and Wise in bed

Morecambe and Wise Breakfast Sketch

In the 21st century Derek Rose remains the leading manufacturer of classic pyjamas. Now pyjamas are dying out due to the growing popularity of tee shirts as nightwear.

Laurel and Hardy in evening atire

Man and his Clothes

2011-04-13T20:54:00.000+01:00

These images are from the early 1950's magazine Man and his Clothes.

A Brief History of Denim

2011-03-29T18:27:00.001+01:00

Denim started in the 1600's in a town near Turin Italy called Chiere, it was produced for sailors from Genoa, which is were the word 'jean' is thought to have originated. The word 'denim' is thought to have come from 'serge de Nimes', although it is argued that it actually originated from another fabric called 'nim' as Serge de Nimes was prominently wool and silk.

Two hundred years later, in 1853, Levi Strauss, moves to California selling dry goods and trousers made from the canvas he was selling, he received complaints that the material was uncomfortable, so Levi Strauss switched to denim.

On the 20th May 1873 the blue jean was born as we know it as Levi Strauss and taylor Jacob Davis patented the rivet to strengthen the jeans.

In 1902 Levi Strauss died, four years later all his records were lost in the San Francisco earthquake.

In 1924 the 'Can't Bust 'Em' company use the term 'jeans' to describe these trousers for the first time. Then Hollywood took up the craze, dressing their cowboys in them.

In the 1950's jeans became the symbol of rebellion under the leadership of James Dean and Marlon Brando. They also became a rock'n'roll icon.

They were worn in the '60's by hippies, as flares. In the '70's the ripped jean became a fashion icon. The 80's brought designer jeans into the world as slick tight skinny styles, contrasting to the baggy, low-waisted jeans of the hip-hop '90's.

Early Mafia Movie Chic

2011-02-14T21:03:00.000Z

Edward G. Robinson in 'Little Caesar'

George Raft - Publicity Shot

Paul Muni in 'Scar Face'

James Cagney and Humphrey Bogart in 'The Roaring Twenties'

Happy Valentine's Day

The Cravat

2011-01-11T18:16:00.002Z

Terry Thomas

The cravat is possibly one of the most stereotyped pieces of clothing, automatically associated with playboy billionaires on yachts, cads or dandies. However this article of clothing has been around long before these stereotypes existed.

'A cravate, a pipe and a robe define a man's
elegance.' Clark Gable

The cravat is of Croatian origin, it was part of the Croatian military uniform. The word cravat comes from the word Hrvat meaning Croat a native of Croatia.

The French took it up in the 1630's during the 30 years war, when Croatian mercenaries joined the French army it soon grew popular throughout Europe.

'A well knotted cravat is the first
serious step into a man's life.' Oscar Wild

On King Charles II's return from exile in 1660 he introduced to Britain what was then the height of fashion in Europe. The cravat lost its popularity in the late 1600's but returned in the 1770's with the Macaronis' arrival and remained popular, although varying dramatically in style until the 1970's.

Punks; The Thieves of Youth Culture

2010-12-13T21:28:00.000Z

Sid Vicious in Leather Jacket

Johnny Rotten in Ted mode

Unlike most youth cultures, Punk does not have a set uniform, but still manages to be distinctive. It achieves this by taking the most striking parts of other youth cultures. For example, Brothel

Creepers from Teds, leather jackets from Rockers, D.M.'s from skinheads. Other sources included Dennis the Menace sweaters, and Mohican hairstyles from Native Americans. They did not do this out of lack of imagination but to mock through irony and to look as threatening as possible as well as to rebel against the status quo.

Crimes and Misdemeanours

2010-12-02T21:18:00.003Z

Stalin

Beverly/Vicious

Cash

McQueen

Brown

Lewis

Hendrix

Sinatra

Fonda

Morrison

Jagger

Jones/Bowie

This was England

2010-11-11T21:30:00.007Z

The iconic image of Dr Martens boots can be felt around the world. Above a Chinese punk wears them.

This year Doc Martens turned 50. These boots were born from a skiing accident during World War II, when Dr Klaus Martens designed a new boot with air padded soles because army issue boots were too uncomfortable for his injured foot.

He sold the company in 1960 to British manufacture R. Griggs who changed the heel, used yellow stitching, and patented the AirWair soles. They were adopted by the working man, and weren't considered remotely fashionable until Pete Townshend of The Who took them up and DM's where brought into the limelight.

They were soon to be adopted by a variety of youth cultures nameley by skinheads who stereotyped the boot as an aggressive fascist footwear. Then the punks grasped the already bloodstained history of the Dr Martens boot.

Early skinheads

Ironically the police at this time also wore them for practicality and comfort.

Today the aggression of the boot's image has been diluted to become a general fashion item, and now what started off as anti-fashion has become a mere trend.

The Clash

Long John Smedley

2010-10-25T13:42:00.000+01:00

John Smedley was founded in 1784, making it the oldest factory in the world, its home is in Lea just outside Cromford in Derbyshire. They are famous for their wool and cotton knitwear. It is believed that the term 'long john's' came from John Smedley when they made underwear for the army.

Their most iconic sweaters are their polo shirts and their cardigans. It must be admitted that a few of their latest designs are bordering on the eccentric. Despite this they continue to produce some great quality knitwear.

Actor Martin Freeman sporting John Smedley polo shirt, teamed with cravat.

Saville Row Field Day

2010-10-11T17:13:00.001+01:00

Today Saville Row will experience its roads being closed off to traffic, laden with turf and sheep to mark the first day of British wool week. An event sponsored by The Prince of Wales to celebrate the British wool industry, which has been dying out do to cheap imports and synthetic materials.

A little dab'll do ya!

2010-10-05T20:59:00.002+01:00

Brylcreem first started in 1928 by County Chemicals (a British Company) made primarily for slicked back well groomed mens hair of the time. It was taken up by RAF pilots which lead them to be dubbed The Brylcreem Boys.

In the 50's it was worn not only by Greasers and Teds to keep up the quiff/pompadour, but also by conservative squares. Maintaining their well cut, neatly groomed hairstyle. By the 60's men started growing their hair long a little dab just wasn't enough and Brylcreem lost its popularity,

We'll miss you Tony

2010-09-30T16:52:00.001+01:00

The Blazer

2010-09-28T22:41:00.011+01:00

There are two distinct varieties of blazer, the double breasted and the single breasted. The double breasted is commonly navy blue with gilded brass buttons and three pockets and flaps, with the exception of the breast pocket, also known as the reefer jacket. Whilst the single breasted blazer has three pockets traditionally without flaps and often an emblem on the breast pocket.

The term 'blazer' has several origins, the most popular of which comes from the frigate HMS Blazer where in 1837 Queen Victoria was going to visit the ship. The captain noticing how scruffy the crew looked, made a jacket for himself and his crew. When Queen Victoria saw them, she was so impressed with the uniform that she made it compulsory for the rest of the navy to wear similar jackets.

The club jacket was called the blazer either because the club crest was emblazoned onto the breast pocket, or other theory is that The Lady Margaret Boat Club in 1825 had bright red jackets that blazed.

They were popular for sporting events in the 1900s, were they were then taken up by schools as part of their uniform.

In the 1960's they were adopted by Mods. Then in the 1970's they were worn again by Mods during the Mod revival. Punks also took them up at this point.

2010-09-17T07:22:00.001+01:00

Thanks for mentioning me impossible cool, but actually I'm 13.

1920's Men's Swimwear

2010-09-11T10:42:00.000+01:00

Up until, and during the 1920's, all men's swimwear was knitted, which as you can imagine made it extremely heavy when wet. The result of this excess weight meant the bathing suit would often fall down.

All men's bathing suits, due to public indecency laws had to be one piece and have a skirt or skirt effect. It was either this or fly fronted flannel trousers to the knee with a vest. Sometime after this, the one piece 'speed suit' came along, with deeply slashed arm holes and closed leg trunks. This was the beginning of speed over modesty.

In 1933 a removable top was invented, although all this produced was scandals and arrests for public indecency. It was not until 1937 that men were allowed to go topless in public.

The Origin of The Brothel Creeper

2010-08-24T20:22:00.014+01:00

The Brothel Creeper/Beetle Crusher is a thick crepe soled wedge shoe with leather or suede uppers and traditionally two metal ringed eyelets. These are a stereotypical Teddy Boy shoe, although they were popular in the 50's, they really kicked off again in the 70's along with the 50's revival in general.

Creepers from Shelly's in London.

Winkle Picker Brothel creepers

Found at Mad World Costumiers

In Shoreditch London.

In The 50's Teds also wore Oxford shoes, Winkle Pickers, and Chukka boots.

Teddy Boys Wearing

Oxfords and Chukkas.

Brothel Creepers and Chukka boots originated during WWII, were, in the North African deserts, soldiers wore suede and crepe boots. George Cox is said to be the originator of both these shoe styles, which were then adopted by Teddy Boys.

Later in the 70' as the Teddy Boy style became more exaggerated so did their footwear.

The Bright Young People

2010-07-29T12:45:00.004+01:00

'The Bright Young Things', as the press came to nickname them, were a group of rebellious, young aristocratic party makers and the first celebrity youth culture. They held exotic fancy dress parties, including 'Baby Parties, 'Mozart Parties' and 'Poor People Parties', which they used as an excuse to elaborately dress up as well as cross dress. These were considerred to be the first 'Bring your own bottle' parties. They had vast treasure hunts that went throughout London, clues of which would be published in newspapers.

The girls cut their hair short for the first time, and wore the first short dresses,(knee length and above).

They drank heavily and took drugs. This party lifestyle was in someway to make up for the dark aftermath of World War I.

The reason The Bright Young People were so infamous at the time was mainly due to the press leaching off their antics. They claimed to hate the press but did all they could to attract it. Within their group they wrote about and photographed themselves, Evelyn Waugh wrote Vile Bodies and Cecil Beaton extensively Photographed them at the time.

Bowling Shirts

2010-07-13T21:24:00.000+01:00

The bowling shirt is a short sleeved button down shirt with a large collar, not dissimilar in shape to the Hawaiian shirt. It is worn casually often with an embroidered name or emblem on the left breast pocket, and the name of the bowling club team or logo on the back. They are made to fit loosely, and are of a light weight material. These shirts are the ultimate Americana shirt.

The shirt I'm wearing was bought from a vintage shop in Brooklyn, by my American Aunt as a birthday present (thanks).

2010-07-11T12:25:00.000+01:00

Ancient Industries, thanks for mentioning me on your blog

Brogues

2010-07-06T21:47:00.016+01:00

John Lobbs's Full Brogue Derby

Although brogues seem like a formal shoe, the holes in brogues were created for the practical use of draining away excess water from Scottish and Irish bogs. The name brogue is gallic for shoe.

In the 1940's the thick soled brogue was adopted by The Zoot suit wearers in the US, then in Europe, the Zazous of France (left) and The Swing Kids of Germany took hold of the style as a form of rebellion because of the excessive use of leather during a time of rationing, and its American jazz associations. They were later taken up by the Teddy Boys before Brothel Creeper were adopted as
their signature shoe.

Three men on The Empire Windrush

in 1948, all sporting brogues.

From One Hundred Years of Menswear.

My Brogues

Traditionally, in Britain, the brogue was worn by the country gent, ideally with a tweed suit; whilst the oxford shoe was more of a shoe for the man about town.

2010-07-06T16:34:00.000+01:00

street etiquette. thanks for the name check on twitter.

The Ray-Ban

2010-07-01T20:00:00.000+01:00

Ray-Ban sunglasses were invented in 1930 for Lieutenant John MacCready, who returned from a balloon flying trip with sun damaged eyes. He asked Bausch & Lomb, a New York based optic specialist, to design sun glasses that were both stylish and would protect his eyes. They were originally called Anti-Glare goggles, a year later the name was changed to Ray-Bans. Six years after that they were unveiled to the general public. The original style was the classic aviator glasses with the tear drop shaped lens. This shape is as practical as it is stylish. The Aviator sunglasses rose in popularity when General Douglas MacArthur was photographed wearing them.

The Wayfarer's were invented in 1952 by Raymond Stegeman. They became the go-to sunglasses of the early 1960's, worn by Bob Dylan, Andy Warhol,and J.F.K. They were popularized again by the Blues Brothers in 1980, and the craze was reborn.
In 1992 the film Reservoir Dogs kick-started the craze back into cult status.

Another classic style I should mention is the Clubmaster. Famously worn by James Dean and Malcolm X.

The Desert Boot

2010-06-15T21:33:00.004+01:00

The desert boot was invented by Nathan Clark and pattern cutter Bill Tuxhill in 1949. Over time these boots steadily grew popular, worn by the beatniks in the 1950's, they then appealed to mods in the early 60's because of their ability to be both dapper and casual. In the late 60's and early 70's they were worn by hippies and were popular with school kids of the time. They were also famously worn by Steve McQueen in The Great Escape.

Desert boots are a suede, crepe soled boot
with only two eyelets. The classic desert boot was originally a light tan.

The Hawaiian Shirt

2010-06-07T19:30:00.001+01:00

Despite its name, the Hawaiian shirt was in fact invented by a Chinese merchant, Ellery Chun from kimono fabric for tourists in Wakiki. They were an immediate hit with the local surfers and tourist.

It began as a dress shirt, known as the Aloha shirt. After the war they were brought back by soldiers and became fashionable, casual wear through out the western world.

The best known designer was Alfred Shaheen, whose shirt was famously worn by Elvis Presley in Blue Hawaii in 1961.

Winkle Pickers

2010-05-18T21:56:00.016+01:00

Winkle Pickers were worn in the 50's and 60's sometimes by Teddy Boys instead of Brothel Creepers and, more commonly by Teddy Girls. They were also worn by Beatniks, Rockabillys and later Modernists and Mods (Modernists being early Mods). The Mods attached a Cuban heel to them and called them Beatle Boots. As the name suggests they were worn by the Beatles and also, famously by Andy Warhol. The Mods later flattened the toes turning them into chisel toe shoes.

The most famous Winkle Pickers were made by Stan's Shoes of Battersea. They were a lot more extreme than
the Italian version, but bulkier.

They were later revived in the 70's by Punks. As with Drapes and Brothel Creepers, they wore them partly to annoy Teds. Goth's adopted them in the early 80's.

Top:Pathe film clip of Stan's Shoes of Battersea, Shoes worn by The Leningrad Cowboys, from the film Leningrad Cowboys Go America, John Cooper Clarke, my boots by Gibsons of London. Bottom image from website Rapiers are go!

Groovy Kids/Square Kids

2010-05-10T18:31:00.008+01:00

Record cover from Pav, boys above from History World.

The Life of the Trench Coat

2010-05-04T18:07:00.005+01:00

The trench coat was claimed to be designed by Aquascutam in the 1890's and Burberry in 1901. It was worn during World War I as an optional substitute for the heavier greatcoat to keep the rain out. It could only be privately purchased by the officer rank. It was then modified to include D rings and shoulder straps.

During World War II the army still used them. It was then worn in the 1940's and '50's for more fashionable reasons by the likes of Humphrey Bogart in Cassablanca and cartoon character Dick Tracy.

In the 1960's the mod movement took it up. During the !970's it was adopted by punks and later by goths, and has always been a staple item in the fashion world.

High Waisted

2010-04-26T20:53:00.010+01:00

Here I am wearing wide, high-waisted, front pleated, dogs tooth check trousers with turn-ups. These were popular from the 1920's - 1950's, and again in the 1980's.

Frank Sinatra and Gene Kelly

The Kangol Hat

2010-04-20T17:24:00.006+01:00

Kangol is a British hat company created in 1938 where it supplied berets for the army in World War II. In the 1960's they became fashionable when Mary Quant worked with the company. In the 1980's they were adopted by the likes of Grand Master Flash and other creators and followers of hip hop. These days Samuel L. Jackson is rarely seen without one.

My Leather Jacket

2010-04-13T20:27:00.005+01:00

This vintage black leather bikers jacket is British, distinguished by its red lining. Although I am unaware of its make as it has no label. It is a serious bikers jacket indicated by the padding in its shoulders and elbows.

"Bury me in my leather jacket"

2010-04-06T11:18:00.022+01:00

The 1950's film The Wild One, starred Marlon Brando wearing a Schott Perfecto black leather motorcycle jacket. The Schott Perfecto was then banned in many American high schools. This was the start of the leather jacket as a rebellious style icon (Schott was the first company to put a zip on a leather jacket).

In England the film The Wild One was banned. Despite this, British rockers were quick to catch on to this new rebellious youth culture by wearing Lewis Leathers red lined, black leather jackets called the Bronx Jacket.

The British would continue to wear this leather jacket throughout the '60's were it was worn by John Lennon, and in the '70's were it was picked up by punk bands like The Clash, and also Sid Vicious whose mother found a letter in his leather jacket after he died saying "Please bury me in my leather jacket, jeans and motorcycle boots. Good Bye"

Les Zazous

2010-03-29T19:51:00.006+01:00

Image from One Hundred Years of Menswear

The Zazous were a rebellious, French youth culture during Nazi occupied France. They rebelled against the Nazi regime by wearing zoot suit like outfits. They wore long jackets with padded shoulders, skinny ties with high, stiff collars, held in place with a tie pin and high waisted wide trousers, cut short at the ankle to display bright coloured or white socks, topped by thick soled suede shoes or brogues. Long flamboyant quiffs and thick rimmed dark glasses. They listened to be-bop, swing and jazz and used American slang. The name is believed to have come from the Cab Calloway song Zah Zuh Zah.

They also wore the Jewish six pointed star with 'Zazou' or 'swing' written on it as a protest to the Jews being singled out by the Nazis. However Nazi sympathizers started carrying hair clippers with them to cut off the hair of the Zazous. At this point they were driven underground and started playing records in cellars, holding secret dances. These gatherings, where people danced just to records are considered to be the first night clubs or discotheques.

Cowboy/Teddy Boy

2010-03-22T17:14:00.000Z

I couldn't help but notice the similarity between Teddy Boys and 1950's Westerns.

Me in my Drape

2010-03-16T20:12:00.007Z

The vintage drape that I'm wearing was originally from a shop in South London called Ted's Corner, now de-funked. This particular drape has velvet cuffs, collar and pocket flaps. It has two breast pockets,that curve in a Western style.

The New Edwardians

2010-03-09T17:32:00.006Z

Teddy Boys started just after the war when, like zoot suit wearers they wore long flamboyant suits. Although unlike the zoot suiters they wore Edwardian style clothes and called themselves New Edwardians. They originated before Rock 'n' Roll. It wasn't until the mid '50s that they took up Rock 'n' Roll as their own, and started wearing brothel creepers and more exciting colours. The Daily Express nicknamed them 'Teddy Boys.' The Rock 'n' Roll generation of Teddy boys kept the name.

By the '60's some Teddy Boys decided to follow

Rock 'n' Roll, and take up the leather jacket. The next generation decided to take up slicker, more tightly cut suits to rebel against the flamboyancy of the Teds.

It was not until the '70's that the Ted revival came about, making enemies with the new generation of Punks.

The Zoot Suit

2010-02-28T13:39:00.001Z

The term 'zoot' means; 'an extravagant way of expressing yourself'.

The zoot suit was popularized by Cab Calloway, and other jazz musicians.

Image from One Hundred Years of Menswear.

The zoot suit first came into fashion during World War II to rebel against clothes rations. The long coat with shoulder pads, the high waisted baggy peg trousers, worn with watch chain reaching below the knee, a large wool bow tie and thick soled shoes made the zoot suit wearers extravagant and attention seeking. They were unpopular with soldiers because of their extravagant way of dressing and disregard to rationing.

Prince of Wales Check

2010-02-22T17:55:00.001Z

Savile Row Tailor Tommy Nutter, suited in his own design of Prince of Wales check trousers, (with wide cuffs) waistcoat, jacket pockets and braiding, on houndstooth jacket.

The Prince of Wales check is commonly confused with The Glen Urquhart check, which is nearly half the size of The Prince of Wales check. It was designed by Edward VII when he was Prince of Wales as livery for his shooting parties in Scotland. Also worn by the later Prince of Wales, Edward, The Duke of Windsor, and commonly mistaken to be his design.

GREATCOATS

2010-02-15T11:12:00.004Z

During World War II the greatcoat was a military symbol of power. It was then adopted first by hippies, protesting against the military, and then by punks to rebel against those in authority.

The picture at the top is me (taken by Caitlin Buckley), wearing an original Air Force greatcoat, bought in a Hastings junk shop for £15, the boots are Blundstone's. Copies of the original Whithnail and I coat are made in Harris tweed and can be bought for £895!

2010-02-11T21:07:00.000Z

Me in gold and black opera scarf, a smoking jacket in maroon paisley, red tartan pyjama bottoms, Pantherella socks and very large hair.

Crazy Hair

2010-02-09T19:17:00.001Z

Look at these crazy hair do's!